This weekend, three of my friends (Libby, Constantinos, and Christian) and I decided that we wanted to take a weekend trip down to the south coast of Iceland. I had seen pictures of some pretty impressive looking coast line (sort of Oregon-y, actually) near the little town of Vik. We didn't really want to rent a car because it was going to cost us each about $60. We discovered that the bus would have been about the same price, and would have locked us into a particular route, which we definitely didn't want. Given our success with hitchhiking the previous weekend, we decided to try our luck again-- this time with a slightly more ambitious goal. Vik is located approximately 190 km from Reykjavik, so the distance didn't seem outlandish. We knew that we could run into a bit of trouble because of a lack of traffic (hwy 1 along the south coast is not exactly raging...), but we decided that we would just go into it with open minds about exactly where we would end up. It didn't REALLY matter if we got to Vik, because we knew that the entire journey was going to be beautiful (we were going to be in Iceland, afterall!).
At about 8:30 on Saturday morning, the four of us trooped out to the bus stop outside of Gamli to catch the city bus. We took the bus out to a place where we could easily walk to Hwy 1, the highway that goes around the perimeter of the country. We split up into two groups, Constantinos and Christian in one and Libby and me in the other. Libby and I knew that we probably had an advantage given our gender, but we were alright with that! Christian and Constantinos walked ahead of us to clarify that we were indeed in two groups. Libby and I stood where we were for a couple of minutes with our thumbs out, waiting for the gap to open. After a bit, I realized that we were standing off to the side of a roundabout, which probably made it pretty difficult to tell where we wanted to go. After realizing our mistake, we began to tramp down the road behind Christian and Constantinos, smiling at the cars with our thumbs eagerly outstretched. After about 5 min, some sort of SUV pulled over. The driver popped out and offered us a ride by opening up the tailgate and gesturing for us to put our bags in the back. We got in the pristine, leather backseat and told the driver (a 50 something man) and his passenger (another 50 something man) that we were attempting to get to Vik. They replied positively, but didn't tell us where we were going. I thought that I should maybe ask how far they were going to take us, but never quite got up the nerve. After about 30-40 min, they dropped us off at a junction in the middle of nowhere, as they had to start heading in the other direction. We got out, giggled excitedly about how wild we felt, and then began to walk down the road. After about 3 minutes, the first car that passed us pulled over and told us that we could get in. This guy was probably in his late 40s. We talked about horses for the majority of the ride, which was just fine with me! He probably drove us for 10 or 15 min, before dropping us off at another junction in the road. This time, we were hardly out of the car before a huge land rover pulling an equally huge trailer (covered in big, fancy decals) pulled up beside us. I can't even remember if we had our thumbs out! This beast was occupied by a wiry, middle aged man and his 15 or 16 (we're guessing) year old son. They were going to ride ATVs somewhere, and seemed excited to give us a ride. We knew that they knew where we wanted to go, but we weren't sure exactly where they were going all of the time. They took us along on a couple of errands with them to pick up an ATV and to drop off some horse show fliers (I guess he makes fliers or something), which required bumping around on dirt roads and stopping to roll down the window to talk to horses and dogs. All very interesting. They seemed nice and were enthusiastic about telling us what we were driving by, even if it was obvious (ie. that is a cow). They eventually drove us past their turnoff so that they could drop us off at Seljalandsfoss, a beautiful waterfall that has a sweet path you can walk on behind the crashing water. They told us that we must take the walk, and we weren't about to protest! After getting pretty darn wet (luckily we had rain gear, well actually, I guess Libby's pants got soaked), we walked back to the main road and continued walking towards Vik. By this time, we were only 59 km from Vik, so we felt like it was going to be totally doable. We had been in sporadic communication with the other group, so knew that they were about 1 stop behind us-- not too bad. For the next hour and a half we walked along the road, chatting happily, but getting picked up by no one. We got a call from Christian and Constantinos telling us that they were in a similar situation, which wasn't exactly encouraging. Even though we still felt pretty confident that we would make it, I think both of us were starting to feel at least a tincy bit apprehensive. We started talking about where we could stay if we didn't get to the next town (which was Vik), constructing plans that involved begging for hot water and sleeping in barns. It actually sounded sort of exciting!
For the majority of our adventure, it had been misting or raining lightly and cool. At this point, however, the rain started to come harder and the wind began to pick up. We tried our hardest to look pleadingly at the cars, but no luck. The cars were coming at about 5-10 minute intervals, so with each car, we had plenty of time to get excited. Finally, a blue van pulled over and an old Icelandic man got out. He told us that he wasn't going far, but that he'd be happy to drive us for the bit he was going. He talked most of the time we were driving, but we couldn't really understand a lot of what he was saying. We thought that this was probably unfortunate, because it seemed like he was trying to give us helpful advice. Oh, he somehow knew our volcanology professor, but we couldn't understand the connection! Eventually, he dropped us off in a parking lot by Skogafoss, another gorgeous waterfall in the "town" of Skogar. The wind and rain were crazy (50 mph) when we got out of the car, so after a little confab, we made a beeline for a little building that looked like it might contain bathrooms. The first door we opened let us into this little room that contained a shower and sink. It felt warm, so we bustled inside and locked the door. Our new home! We contacted Constantinos and Christian to inform them that we had found our home for the night. It was about 2 pm when we arrived, and we didn't leave until 9:30ish the next morning.
After a couple of hours, the boys stumbled in, a bit battered from the wind. The small room definitely seemed smaller with two more people, but it was certainly preferable to being in the wind and rain that was pounding the exterior. We hadn't brought much in the way of entertainment and our dinner required hot water, but we made do! We had brought some snacks (apples, cheese, crackers, dried cranberries, cookies, and bananas), so we sort of rationed those out throughout the night. I had brought East of Eden by John Steinbeck, and we wound up spending the majority of the evening taking turns reading aloud from the book. It was actually really cozy! Yes, we were packed like sardines in a public restroom, but I'd say that we had fun! Time went remarkably quickly-- we stayed up until almost 1 am, if you can believe that! We did some fun food experiments, like trying to make oatmeal in our mouths or cook couscous in cold water (both had marginal success), read, talked, laughed about the situation, and slept! We slept head to foot to maximize space, and while no one slept super well on the hard, tile floor, I feel like we all woke up reasonably well rested. We think that the floor was heated (sort of like the sun room at home) which was wonderful! We put all of our stuff in the shower and propped our shoes on the little window sill so that each of us had room to fully extend our legs (almost-- mine sort of went up into the shower, but that was ok).
In the morning, we were greeted by an absolutely astounding view. It was cloudy and cold, but the rain and wind had stopped! We walked over to the waterfall and admired the clear, blue water that was streaming away from it. We didn't diddle around for too long, however, because we knew that getting back to Reykjavik was going to be challenging. We set out along the road and were probably only passed by two cars in the first hour. Neither of them appeared to even think about stopping. After walking for over 3 and a half hours, Libby and I were finally picked up by an extremely nice, young, Icelandic couple who were heading all the way back to Reykjavik!!! We felt TERRIBLE leaving the boys behind, but someone had to go! After they dropped us off on our doorstep, we began strategizing in earnest about ways we could help the boys get home. While I was unpacking with my thinking cap on, Libby came shrieking into my room and told me to look out my window. Lo and behold, Christian and Constantinos were walking down the sidewalk! We flew downstairs and out the door to greet them and see how on earth they had managed! Turns out, a bus happened to stop where they were eating lunch and they were able to pop on! What luck!
We didn't see Vik, but I still think we had an amazing time! While we were walking along the road, Libby and I couldn't stop remarking on how stunning the scenery was. Not a bad place to "have" to go for a long walk. It felt really, really good to not really know how we were going to get from place to place, but to have faith that something was going to work out. Also, we did the entire trip for only $2.00! Quite the bargain! I think having people along who were absolute troopers was key-- whining people could have made the whole thing miserable. Man. What an adventure.

